Repair / Problems / Brakes / Drum brake is weak

Brakes

Drum brake is weak

Do not rideAlso called: rear brake not working, drum brake poor, brake pedal goes down but little braking

Brake held on while the axle is tightened
Brake held on while the axle is tightened
Drum brake shoes and backing plate
Drum brake shoes and backing plate
Levering a brake shoe off the backing plate to inspect it
Levering a brake shoe off the backing plate to inspect it
Drum brake diagram naming brake arm, panel and cam
Drum brake diagram naming brake arm, panel and cam
Single leading shoe drum brake layout
Single leading shoe drum brake layout

A drum brake that needs a lot of force or travel and still slows the bike poorly. In a drum brake, a cam spreads two shoes against the inside of the drum. Weak braking comes from: shoes needing adjustment, worn or glazed shoes, oil or grease on the linings, water in the drum, a stiff cable or cam, or a cam that has turned so far it no longer pushes well.

Is it safe to ride?

No, until it is adjusted or serviced. A weak rear drum means you are relying on the front alone.

Quick checks first

  • Measure free play at the lever or pedal and compare with your manual.
  • Look at the wear indicator pointer on the brake arm with the brake applied: is it past the end of the mark?
  • Has the bike just been through deep water or washed? Brake gently a few times to dry it.
  • Did you just adjust the chain? Moving the rear wheel changes the brake rod length.
  • A twin leading shoe brake has two cams. If they are not adjusted so each shoe touches the drum at the same time, braking is weaker than a single cam brake.
  • A cam shaft rusted tight, or lining that has come unglued from the shoe, also gives weak or sticking brakes. Both need the wheel and shoes off.
  • After refitting the wheel, spin it, press the brake on hard and hold it, then tighten the axle. This centres the shoes.

Diagnose it step by step

1Is the free play more than your manual allows?

2After adjusting, is the wear pointer past its mark or the adjuster at the end of its thread?

3With the brake applied, is the brake arm past a right angle to the rod or cable?

4Is the cable or lever stiff, or slow to return?

5Is there oil or grease near the hub (leaking hub seal, chain lube, over-greased cam)?

6When serviced, are the shoes glazed or the drum glazed, cracked or worn beyond its maximum diameter?

  • Glazed only: clean with fine abrasive paper and refit.
  • Worn shoes: replace as a pair.
  • Cracked or oversize drum: replace the hub.

7Does it get weak only on long hills?

Causes, most likely first

Cause How to confirm Fix
Needs adjustment Too much free play Adjust a drum brake
Wet drum After water; recovers Dry with gentle brake use
Stiff cable or cam Heavy lever; slow return Lubricate control cables
Worn shoes Pointer past mark; adjuster at end Service a drum brake
Oily linings Oil inside drum New shoes, fix leak
Glazed shoes or drum Shiny hard surfaces Clean or replace
Worn or cracked drum Over maximum diameter; cracks Replace hub

Related problems

Sources
  • K-Light 125 manual, PDF page 162
  • MAVCC Motorcycle Mechanic, PDF pages 540, 544, 546
  • Unit 2 The Motorcycle, PDF page 42

Values marked K-Light 125 are for that reference bike. Use your own bike's manual for its values. Text CC BY-SA 4.0, Transitions Lab.